Le top Hugo (Sewing Machina) : cœur croisé !
The Hugo top is coming this summer after a big series of pants… the hole in my wardrobe was more on the bottoms than on the tops this year.
On the other hand, I had sewn a nice series of t-shirts last year. It all balances out like the yin and yang of the closet.
|Patron top Hugo en pdf||Sewing Machina sur Etsy||1||6,26 €|
|Jersey de tencel noir||Mamzelle Fourmi||1 m||13,90 €|
The Hugo top pattern
I spotted the Hugo top on Etsy where a number of pattern designers produce patterns that fly a little under the radar.
It must be said that we are not always sure of the quality of the pattern and the explanations there.
But like the explorer of the Pedehaffes Jungle, I deliver here my most recent exploration. Come on, let’s go!
There is a bodysuit version with 2 options for the back, thong or normal panty, and a top version in 2 options too: short or long.
As the name suggests, Sewing Machina is a foreign pattern brand from the beautiful country… Germany.
The explanations are available in German and English. They are clear, quite detailed and fully illustrated with pictures. The measurements are given in cm and inches.
Even though I’m more of a schematic person, the pictures are easy to read with different colored fabrics for the main fabric vs. the facing fabric and some details drawn on top (e.g. the seam lines or where to notch the margins).
The pattern sheet is available in A0, A4 and US Letter with separate layers and sheets for the top and body.
The pattern is available in 11 sizes, from 80 to 128 cm bust measurement. Seam allowances are 1 cm.
Sewing the Hugo top & bodysuit
I made the top long version, in size C. Even though the pattern is drafted for a 168 cm stature, I didn’t make any stature adjustments… to tell the truth, I very rarely do it.
My shortness seems to be in the legs rather than the bust.
To sew it, I chose a buttery soft, stretchy and supple tencel jersey. These qualities are, in my opinion, essential to be comfortable in this top.
In terms of difficulty, this is not a pattern for beginners.
There is the middle front to be sewn very precisely (always technical with stretchy knit), the shoulder seam and the mic-mac of the crossed straps to manage.
On the other hand, this is a top that requires sewing mostly, if not totally, on the sewing machine.
Aside from the side seams, my Hugo top was assembled entirely with a lightning stitch on the sewing machine.
The sewing of the shoulders is a bit complex to get a clean result. It’s actually a burrito seam but in a tube where the sides are already sewn… Tricky!
To make things easier, it’s helpful to leave 1 cm free at the end of the straps while assembling the front and back to their respective facings. This will make it easier to assemble the shoulder seam and the 4 layers.
Also, notching the seam allowance at the end of the straps will help position the pieces correctly before sewing.
Otherwise, all seam allowances have been staggered (e.g., one allowance at 3mm and the other at 6mm) to prevent the fluid fabric from leaving too much of a mark on the right side of the garment.
In the end, I only made an adjustment of about 1.2 x 2 xm on each side (or 4.8 cm in total) about 10 cm below the armpit to correct a slight slackness at that spot.
The adjustment was, of course, made on the top AND the facing.
I love this soft and original Hugo top… but I’d better avoid putting it on in front of an audience full of illusions about my intrinsic grace. Every time I put it on, I look for where the front is, where the back is and end up with the head tucked into the armpit.
But once I put it on, mama mia, I feel great, comfortable and sexy as hell!
It should be noted that this top is not so compatible with a bra whose straps would be seen on the front. However, it is possible to modify the facing quite easily to turn it into a built-in bra.
See you next week probably, again with a stocking… 2022, year of the bottoms!