Le809 coat with incorporated gilet (DP Studio)
This Le809 coat with integrated waistcoat has been in the pipeline for at least 4 years. Before 2020 at any rate. It’s now 2023… I’m not very good at maths, but that must be it.
I have to say that I’m particularly happy to have finally given birth to this ‘red thread’ project. In other words, a project that progresses with the ebb and flow of ambient motivation and the seasons.
The worst thing is that the project wasn’t really dragged out by its difficulties, but more by the anticipation of the potential difficulty AND the number of stages to be completed… See the difference?
Having said that, go and get a cup of tea, coffee or whatever you like, because a long project means a long article. But as Churchill said: “Success is not final, failure is not fatal, it is the courage to go on that counts“.
|Hop, the 3rd project on my list of 2023 couture projects!
|Patron du manteau Le809 version A avec le gilet intégré
|Cashmere wool coating fabric
|Tissus de Rêve
|Burgundy satin bias
|La Réserve des Arts
|Sew-in collar interlining
|Blue iridescent buttons 45 mm
|Zip + accessories to shorten it
Le809 coat pattern with incorporated gilet
The Le809 coat is a (very, too?) oversized coat in 2 versions: one with an integrated inner waistcoat and the other, longer and without the waistcoat.
Various details also contribute to the originality of the model: the 3 big buttons, the peasant pockets, the dropped sleeves, and the zip with its big ring pull visible on the demo model.
Of course, it’s the version with the waistcoat that interested me, for the closed-open potential: you can keep the coat closed but still keep your chest warm. #atthesametime
The Le809 coat is only available in paper version, in English and French, with 2 huge paper sheets where, fortunately, the pieces don’t overlap.
However, there are 19 of them to transfer (17 for version A without the hem facings) and that takes time on all fours in the living room!
The size range is from 36 to 48, which isn’t very inclusive BUT, the coat is so oversized that its ‘real’ size range must be at least 52.
The instructions are printed on large sheets that are not particularly easy to handle.
Although I found the explanations relatively clear, they are still intended for experienced sewers. You can’t say that DP Studio is looking for the easy way out with basic patterns for beginners.
That said, on the website you can consult the assembly range alone in .pdf format to get an idea of the task in hand.
And fortunately I was able to consult the following articles before starting to make the Le809 coat:
- Tany sews and knits blog: DP Studio’s Le809a: Notes on the inner vest and closures
- Tany sews and knits blog: How to sew the pockets on DP Studio’s Le809 (Coat with integrated vest) – Broad welt side pocket tutorial
- Tany sews and knits blog: DP Studio’s Le809a (Coat with integrated vest): construction notes and details of the finished coat
- Jess sew clothes blog: On Sewing Upgrades: DP Studio’s le 809 coat
Thanks to all those ladies for sharing!
I also found a few errors in the pattern pieces (without being a professional, eh):
- the “Sleeve Lining” piece is the Sleeve piece
- the pocket facing is missing
- there’s a duplicate pocket piece, 2 times the same… or one of the two should have been slightly larger than the other
Materials & special techniques for the Le809 coat
To make this coat, I had to source some rather special materials and supplies. In my previous article, I mentioned the ironing equipment and interfacing I bought at Lafayette Saltiel, but that’s not all I needed…
To begin with, as essential elements of the style, I wanted very large buttons with a big visual impact.
I went to Dam Boutons in Montmartre and they recommended buttons that were smaller than I’d imagined, in shades of red and black. I bought them but wasn’t thrilled by them.
After a few months of reflection, I went on the hunt again and discovered the Buttons Paradise boutique, which offers exceptional buttons to designers and individuals.
There I found these precious (in every sense of the word) blue mother-of-pearl buttons measuring 45 mm in diameter.
The bound buttonholes
To go with these jewel buttons, I decided to try my hand at bound buttonholes. Houuuu… !
The other reason is that I don’t think my machine would ever have agreed to sew buttonholes anyway.
And yes, I’d rather work on bound buttonholes than drag myself around Paris to have my buttonholes made in a shop. To each his own ^^
So I went looking for video tutorials on Youtube. However, it was the 6-part video tutorial on “Bound Buttonholes” from Threads Magazine (to which I was a subscriber at the time they were made) that I actually used on Threads Magazine.
The technique is a little time-consuming but relatively similar to making a piped pocket, with a fair amount of hand-stitching.
However, you need to add a window in the facing to let the button through… an important little detail that I’d forgotten after a long break in the project… Ouuuupsy!
The separable zip
Another striking feature of the Le809 coat presented by DP Studio is the separable zip with the MEGA ring. Of course, I looked everywhere and couldn’t find the equivalent.
I ended up on Aliexpress for this approximation. The zip came in a pack of two… and you’ve already seen the second one here.
The size of the zip is not specified on the pattern… not very practical. I cut it to 43 cm using a kit also bought on Aliexpress to fit new zip stops.
For the underside of the collar, I wanted to practise another tailoring technique: picketing. This technique is explained here in the free downloadable tutorial offered by A et A Patrons.
To do this, as I mentioned last week, I bought some collar interfacing to sew on at Lafayette Saltiel.
Then, the stitching consists of making herringbone stitches by hand to sew the interfacing to the underside of the collar, shaping it into the collar at the same time.
And normally, if it’s done properly, the collar takes the shape almost by itself (with a little help from the steam after all).
Sewing the Le809 coat with incorporated gilet
As the Le809 coat has a very oversized cut, I went for the smallest size available: a 36 instead of the 38 that corresponds to my measurements. Even so, I can wear my biggest bat-sleeved jumper underneath.
Of course, I made a few changes to this coat… First of all, as mentioned above, the bound buttonholes.
Then, following comments on the above-mentioned blogs, I lengthened the lining by 20 cm to cover the pocket bags inside and get a nice finish.
I’ve also added a piped AND zipped ‘wallet’ pocket on the right-hand facing (I’m left-handed) to store my phone. Unfortunately, it doesn’t allow me to put my phone in and take it out easily.
So, from a security point of view, we’re on top of things. From an ergonomic point of view, it’s zero. But it’s pretty. And generally invisible.
Despite my swan-thin neck (yes, yes, a friend told me that XD), I also had to modify the collar of the waistcoat, which originally had a slight strangulation effect.
After the 1st version of the strangler waistcoat, I lowered the neckline by 1cm and cut the collar pieces to a size 38 instead of 36.
And even with all these changes, I still tend to wear it slightly open to avoid the strangulation feeling.
I mentioned this mishap to Shibo Li, DP Studio’s artistic director*, at a studio sale. He told me that the collar was designed to be made from a different, softer, stretch fabric. OH GOOD?!
It would have been interesting to have this information somewhere in the explanations. Or even, let’s be playful, just a hint in the presentation model. But no, it’s 100% sewn in the same fabric (see photo above).
*Note how women fashion designers are ‘creators’ or ‘designers’, but he is an ‘artistic director’. Watch and learn, girlzzz, you’ve got the right to show off too!
Apart from these modifications, I used a silk twill that was certainly colourful but a bit thin and hard to work with to line the body of the coat.
But I decided to opt for the more traditional and solid acetate lining for the sleeves and pockets.
Secondly, the pattern doesn’t mention it in the supplies either, but you need a zillion metres of bias tape to tape all the seams on the body of the coat.
Below we see the back slit fully taped for example. This is one of the coat’s technical points, but it’s pretty do-able if you follow the instructions carefully.
Because the lining is not complete, the seams are still very visible when worn flapping in the wind.
Finally, one last technical point that actually happens AT THE BEGINNING of the project (so you know straight away if you’ve messed up or not): the raglan pockets (I think that’s the right word).
Here, the tutorial posted on the Tany sews and knits blog was absolutely essential. There’s nothing unworkable about the technique itself, as long as DP Studio were more thorough in their explanations and clearer in their marking on the front piece.
The raglan pocket marking is imprecise as it marks the location of the finished pocket but not where the seam and incision should be.
OUUUUF! We’ve come to the end of this article. Believe me, I’m as relieved as you are. Sewing the Le809 coat took a long time, but so did writing this article. Incidentally, I think my tendency to use CAPITAL LETTERS more and more is a sign of my tiredness.
If you’ve never seen the coat fully buttoned, it’s because buttons 2 and 3 are slightly out of place and it’s tugging. I had to unstitch/sew them (for the 3rd time I think)… and well, I’m lazy. It’ll probably be next year now.
There are a few shifts left and right and the seam where the waistcoat joins the body is still visible, but I’m not too unhappy with my coat. Especially as I noticed when I looked closely at the DP Studio photos that they also have this demarcation. Ha! Na!
All in all, it’s a very, very practical and warm coat. I really like its style and I’ve sewn a little cap to match. It’ll be the subject of another article… one day!