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Shacket Ingrid (Vikisews)

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This Lennon skirt was a gift to… my oldest nephew. The oldest one. So, I know it may seem surprising. But my brother-in-law & his sons are not into convention and find skirts very comfortable to wear.

So of course, given the gendered clothing industry, it can be complicated for them to find skirt designs that work for them. Hence the idea of sewing a custom-made one for my nephew the artist.

ITEM SHOP PRICE QUANTITY
Lennon skirt PDF pattern (in english and german) Okistyle 1 6 €
Blue-green stretch cotton gabardine (3m coupon) Les Coupons de Saint Pierre 1,5 m 7,50 €
Invisible zip 22 cm Réserve des Arts 1 0,30 €
Fusible lining Stock 0,40 m 0,20 €
Thread Stock 0 0 €
Total     14 €

The Lennon skirt pattern

Matching pattern & fabric

I took a brief from his parents about his colors (orange, pink, bright green, etc.) and did a micro-survey to choose the pattern. 

Once the pattern was chosen, I turned to God rather than his saints (i.e., simply, my nephew) to suggest a selection of fabrics. 

As I didn’t think I would need the whole coupon, and in order not to waste it, I proposed only coupons whose remnants would be usable for me: so no apple green or orange.

This 3m stretch cotton gabardine coupon from Les Coupons de Saint Pierre in a deep blue-green duck met the specifications.

Details of the pattern

The Lennon skirt is a pattern from German designer Okistyle who offers patterns that are out of the ordinary, in a strong, urban and very contemporary style.

I wouldn’t wear all her patterns, but I love her proposals.

Jupe Lennon de Okistyle vue de face

I wear the skirt over my leggings in fleece which thickens my waist of 4 good centimeters.

The patterns are only available in PDF on Etsy, as the designer closed her site 1.5 years ago.

The PDF is in A0, A4 and US letter in 2 size groups: 34 to 42 and 40 to 48 for a stature of 1.64 m which works between 1.62 and 1.74 m.

La jupe Lennon, modèle de jupe unisexe

For my nephew, it was fine. For me, it’s a bit long.

And for my future skirt (but yes, the one I told you about in my 2022 project list), I followed the suggestion only on the product sheet on Etsy: I contacted the designer by email to get the files for the lower height, sizes 17 to 20 and 20 to 23.

She answered very quickly.

The Lennon skirt is an asymmetrical skirt closed by an invisible zip on one side and with a single pocket on the other.

On the pattern board, we have only 3 pieces: 1 front – back identical, the belt and the pocket. And, too bad, the pocket and waistband pieces are superimposed on the front-back on the A4 which forces to transfer them in addition. Gnnn.

On the other hand, it’s also what makes it possible to know where the pocket is supposed to be sewn since there is no other mark.

The instructions are presented in English and German in the same document, with no difference in style between the two languages. Added to a very minimal layout, this makes the instructions not very easy to read.

They are also rather brief and the photos, which are too zoomed in, do not provide much information on the points of difficulty.

We will say that this is part of the charm of the pattern: sewing pattern AND puzzle at the same time.

Sewing the Lennon skirt

We start with 2-3 technical information :

  • Seam allowances are not included, except for the hem of the skirt (if I understood correctly, eh. After the puzzle, the riddles)…
  • I sewed the skirt in size 40 taking the size measurement and it’s a bit big
  • About 1,50 m of fabric in 140 mm width was necessary

Skirt construction

We return to the puzzle, we add the origami and we get the assembly of the skirt. 

The back and the front are cut exactly the same, both in the same way: ie NOT cut mirrored unlike most patterns.

Then, we stitch normally right sides together except that the sides are of different lengths and an orphaned piece will be treated with the hem.

Once you have the front and back assembly figured out, it’s basically a matter of finishing the hem properly. That being said, the hem still requires a bit of work because of its asymmetry which lets the inside of the skirt show when worn.

And it takes even more work when you hand sew the whole hem with an invisible cast-on stitch. But who would do that, right?

Yes, I would.

Pattern modifications

The intended finish of the belt is an edge to edge with a hook. A finish that I found… mmmh, let’s say… rotten that I didn’t like at all. So I added a piece of 5 cm to create an overlay and place snaps.

Also, taken by insistent suspicions about the generous dimensions of the waist, I added belt loops… and indeed, my nephew confirmed that he will wear it with a belt.

And, abracadabri abracadabra, one of the belt loops comes to hide the little last minute addition on the belt.

Bonus: last year’s fanny pack

This banana, the Bauch.laden from Leni Pepunkt, was sewn for Christmas last year and I’m happy to say he wears it every day. The proof!

Conclusion

The pattern is fun but clearly not for beginners. I’m a little disappointed by the lack of markings on the pieces or the minimalist explanations. Clearly, the assembly range has not been thought for months to make it easier for us.

I blame the fabric for being a little too wrinkly, which is quickly done with this skirt. 

That being said, I hope he likes the skirt as much as he did the fanny pack last year… although I don’t expect him to wear it as much!

And we continue next week with my Christmas gifts. At this rate, we will be at Easter!

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6 commentaires

  • 29 January 2022 à 08:21
    violette

    J’aime beaucoup cette jupe je croyais que Catherine daze en avait fait une mais ce n’est pas la même, même genre mais pas pareil
    son style devrait te plaire d’ailleurs si tu ne la connais pas
    En tout cas ton neveu a bien de la chance il une jupe très originale j’aime cette créatrice elle fait des patrons intéressants qui me plaisent beaucoup le lien de la jupe lennon mène à une sur chemise viki au passage

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  • 29 January 2022 à 10:37
    Noëlle Adam

    J’aime cette jupe que j’ai faite à titre expérimental pour moi et j’ai sensiblement les mêmes remarques. N’aimant pas le résultat en bas (même avec couture à la main…) j’y ai ajouté un galon qui planque l’intérieur. Tout main aussi :). Dans les critiques j’ajoute la poche (unique, et pourtant les gauchers et les artistes sont souvent ambidextres) et bien trop petite. Par contre le rendu, le swing ! Aaaah ! Si seulement j’arrivais à inventer un mode de doublure …J’ai aussi un doute profond sur le fait de coudre du biais sur du droit fil. Mais au final c’est un modèle original et seyant et il va très bien avec le superbe haut jaune de ton neveu.
    Bravo à vous deux, lui pour oser porter ce qu’il aime et toi pour t’en sortir aussi bien avec un patron moins évident qu’il n’y parait. Je penserai aux passants la prochaine fois car pour moi aussi ça flotte un peu.

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  • 29 January 2022 à 12:39
    catherine bondier

    Bonjour,

    Je la trouve très chouette et mixte. Je la porterais volontiers.

    Et puis, les écossais portent bien des kilts…

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  • 29 January 2022 à 13:13
    Florence

    Ce qui est bizarre c’est que sur le dessin du modèle, je ne vois pas du tout une jupe asymétrique : plutôt un panneau droit devant, et des grands plis de chaque côté. Ce qui ne se retrouve évidemment pas sur la jupe réalisée…
    Le tissu est très beau, la réalisation hyper soignée comme toujours et évidemment l’essentiel est que lea destinataire soit content.e.

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  • 2 February 2022 à 12:52
    Falbala

    En voilà une jupe bien originale!! Et bravo à ton neveu pour se soucier si peu des conventions vestimentaires!! Oui bien sûr il y a des kilts pour homme donc pourquoi ne pas innover un peu plus!!
    En tout cas, même difficile, l’ourlet a l’air bien soigné. Ah les joies de la couture à la main… j’adore!!

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  • […] Oki Style (Allemagne) : une créatrice originaire de Mongolie qui travaille en Allemagne. Des patrons vraiment très originaux & décalés. → testée avec la jupe Lennon […]

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