Sewing the Jane x Jazz shirt (Ready to Sew)

This project of the Ready to Sew Jane shirt with the sleeves Jazz begun last October when I bought pattern & fabric almost simultaneously (and it doesn’t happen often!).

Now that I already have sewn my fair share of patterns, patterns with a bit out of the ordinary construction are becoming quite appealing … And the Jane shirt is really nice because in addition to a construction out of the standards, the garment obtained is totally wearable on a daily basis with a relaxed style.

Jane shirt pattern

With Ready to Sew, we have a quality PDF pattern: 36 pages, sizes on separate layers, finished garment measurement chart, clear illustrated explanations and very clean interior finishes.

The pattern has a few less pieces than a classic shirt because the front and back are one piece and the buttons placket is included (ie not a separated piece).

Here is what the front / back piece of the shirt looks like … I had a little trouble aligning with the grainline everywhere. Gnnn …!

Not much else to say about that pattern except that I chose to pair it with the Jazz sleeves (a pattern that was separately purchasable before) that are compatible with the shirt Jane.

Sewing the Jane shirt

The drape

So the main originality is the unusual crossover front made by twisting the main piece. Nothing super complex especially as it is very well explained but it is imperative to use a double-sided fabric, a fabric where both sides are showable, if not identical.

Incidentally, a fabric that drapes properly is more than desirable too.

The sleeves are available with French seams for great finishing.

The shirt’s back

The large piece is sewn together on the back. I chose to topstitch my seams back and shoulders.

Regarding the back hem, I had a big doubt in the middle of sewing since the hem is on the outside. I wondered where I had messed up, I looked at a number of photos of bloggers and instagramers who do not often show the back (damn!) … and to finally conclude that it was that.

As can be seen here, it’s not shocking with a double-sided fabric.

Sewing the collar of the shirt Jane was done easily. I really like the shape of this collar. And I am very very fond of my little buttons with Chinese knots that I got in the buttons Parisian den: Dam Buttons (near the Sacré Cœur if you come for a bit of tourism in Paris).

My fitting issues ?

But, but, but … there is a but. As you saw in the previous photos, the shirt Jane is a relaxed fit.

However, I have a fit issue at the upper arms / shoulders on certain movements. I had started a discussion on the Thread & Neddles forum but I do not really understand where it came from.

We see that I have some room on the upper back but it still stuck under the shoulder blades.

Sinon, tu profites de ma coupe toute pourrie de la fin août, avant le passage obligatoire chez le coiffeur pour la rentrée. Normalement, c’est mieux maintenant. Mais à quand le filtre “Cheveux coiffés” sur Lightroom je vous le demande… 

Otherwise, you take advantage of my terrible hair cut of the end of August, before the compulsory passage to the hairdresser for the end of summer and back to shool period. It’s better now. But why isn’t there a “Styled hair” filter on Lightroom I ask you …!?

Last words on my camisa negra

I’m really happy with my Jane x Jazz shirt that I have worn only once or twice for the moment but that will clearly be very good for the mid-season or more if I find a vest in which the sleeves pass. This is my first Ready To Sew pattern and I am pretty convinced by the brand. It’s solid.

I would like to understand anyway my fitting problem … but hey.

Otherwise, I saw this knit version at Huguette Paillettes that I find excellent. I just have to find a double-sided knit without polyester or viscose that would do the job. Public, if you have an idea, share!